The Best Clutch Plates Available for Triumph and BSA
- 1958 and later Triumph 500cc unit twins
- 1963-79 (except "D" models) 650/750cc unit twins
- Pre-unit 650 twins (see note below)
- BSA models with 3-spring clutches
- Works especially well in twins that breathe through and require thick engine oil in the primary
- New specialized clutch material is the best on the market
- Eliminates creep
- Eliminates harsh grinding and missed shifts
- Slip resistant
- The longest wearing clutch
- Sold in complete sets of 12 pieces
- This kit may be used on electric start models, but all the bonded material from the clutch hub must first be removed. Rather than using the normal 7 plates for the ES model, you will use 6 plates (as supplied with this kit). Install a bonded plate first next to the clutch hub, with the remaining plates alternating from steel to bonded plates. The plates included with this kit are .020 thicker than the stock ES plates. ES and NON-ES plates are not interchangeable.
- For any clutch disc to work properly the chain wheel key ways must NOT be notched!
- For pre-unit 650cc models, one bonded plate from the kit must be removed and the first plate in the basket must be a steel plate. The rest of the plates will alternate between bonded and steel plates (as normal).
SKU MAP2150 Manufacture MAP Cycle
- Additional Information
SKU MAP2150 Manufacture MAP Cycle
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- Fitment Information
- Triumph Bonneville 650 4 Speed T120R 1972
- Triumph Bonneville 650 5 Speed T120RV 1972 - 1974
- Triumph Bonneville 650 Competition T120C 1963 - 1965
- Triumph Bonneville 650 Police 1966
- Triumph Bonneville 650 T120 1963 - 1970
- Triumph Bonneville 650 T120R 1963 - 1973
- Triumph Bonneville 650 T120RV 1974 - 1975
- Triumph Bonneville 650 TT Special T120 1964 - 1967
- Triumph Bonneville 650 Thruxton T120 1965
- Triumph Bonneville 750 5 Speed T140RV 1974
- Triumph Bonneville 750 5 Speed T140V 1973
- Triumph Bonneville 750 5 Speed TR140V 1978
- Triumph Bonneville 750 America 1979
- Triumph Bonneville 750 ES T140ES 1982
- Triumph Bonneville 750 Electro T140ES 1980 - 1981
- Triumph Bonneville 750 Executive T140 1980 - 1982
- Triumph Bonneville 750 Executive T140ES 1983
- Triumph Bonneville 750 Final Edition 1981
- Triumph Bonneville 750 Harris 1983
- Triumph Bonneville 750 Royal T140LE 1981 - 1982
- Triumph Bonneville 750 Silver Jubilee T140J 1977
- Triumph Bonneville 750 Special T140D 1979 - 1981
- Triumph Bonneville 750 Super Jubilee 1977
- Triumph Bonneville 750 T140E 1978 - 1982
- Triumph Bonneville 750 T140RV 1973 - 1975
- Triumph Bonneville 750 T140V 1976 - 1977
- Triumph Bonneville TSS 750 Eight Valve T140TSS 1982 - 1983
- Triumph Bonneville TSX 750 T140TSX 1982 - 1983
- Triumph Hurricane 750 TRX75 1973
- Triumph Speed Twin 500 5T 1958
- Triumph TRW Twin 500 1958 - 1965
- Triumph Thunderbird 650 6T 1963 - 1966
- Triumph Thunderbird 650 TR65 1981
- Triumph Thunderbird 650 TR65T 1982
- Triumph Tiger 500 T100 1958 - 1959
- Triumph Tiger 500 T100A 1960 - 1961
- Triumph Tiger 500 T100S 1967 - 1970
- Triumph Tiger 500 T100SC 1963 - 1965
- Triumph Tiger 500 T100SR 1963 - 1965
- Triumph Tiger 500 T100SS 1962 - 1965
- Triumph Tiger 750 5 Speed TR7RV 1973 - 1975
- Triumph Tiger 750 TR7V 1974 - 1981
- Triumph Tiger Daytona 500 T100R 1966 - 1975
- Triumph Tiger Daytona 500 T100T 1967 - 1970
- Triumph Tiger Trail 650 TR65 1982
- Triumph Tiger Trail 750 TR7T 1981 - 1982
- Triumph Trident 750 5 Speed T150V 1971 - 1973
- Triumph Trident 750 Electric Start Triple T160V 1975 - 1976
- Triumph Trident 750 T150 1971 - 1972
- Triumph Trident 750 Triple T150V 1974 - 1975
- Triumph Trophy 500 T100C 1966 - 1973
- Triumph Trophy 500 TR5 1958
- Triumph Trophy 650 4 Speed TR6C 1972
- Triumph Trophy 650 5 Speed TR6CV 1972 - 1973
- Triumph Trophy 650 5 Speed TR6RV 1972 - 1973
- Triumph Trophy 650 TR6 1963 - 1970
- Triumph Trophy 650 TR6C 1966 - 1973
- Triumph Trophy 650 TR6R 1966 - 1973
- Triumph Trophy 650 TR6SC 1964 - 1966
- Triumph Trophy 650 TR6SR 1964 - 1966
- Product Question
Product QuestionsQuestion by: Daniel on Apr 22, 2019 6:37:00 PMYes, this kit will fit your bike. This kit provides six steel an six bonded plates as pictured in the listing. There are many more components to the clutch, but these are typically the parts that wear the most. It could be the other components of your clutch are in good shape and don't need replacing.Answer by: rick c (Admin) on Apr 23, 2019 10:09:00 AMShould I soak the plates in oil before installing? Or install them dry? I have a 1978 triumph Bonneville.Question by: Jason on Dec 7, 2019 8:21:00 PMYou don't have to soak the plates in oil before installing, that would create a messy situation for you. But, it's probably not a bad idea to put a light film of oil on the plates to avoid any initial sticking. My experience is, as soon the bike is started (with primary oil level correct) and clutch exercised (lever pulled in and out with engine running), you'll have plenty of oil on the plates.
Since you have a 1978 Bonneville, your clutch shares oil with the engine (earlier models do not). So you will have to drain and refill your engine oil prior to installing the plates. Be sure you use a "MOTORCYCLE APPROVED" engine oil. Modern automotive engine oils are so slick, they do not allow for good clutch plate stiction on "wet plate" clutches like these. Most auto part stores carry good "motorcycle" oils for various temperature applications.Answer by: rick c (Admin) on Dec 9, 2019 9:55:00 AMHey guys, for a '67 Tri 650...Is a 7 plate conversion mainly for a lighter pull at the lever? If that's all, then these(your)red plates seem like the way to go. Because, after given proper adjustment, I don't want the bike to "creep".Question by: David Millis on Aug 2, 2019 1:09:00 PMThe 13-plate (7-steel and 6-bonded) clutch plate kit (MAP2151) is for electric start only. This will not work on your 67 model. For that you need the MAP2150, 12-plate kit (6-steel and 6-bonded). This is the best clutch plate on the market for vintage Triumphs and when properly installed, you should have no problems with creep.
If you'd like to lighten up the pull on the clutch lever, take a look at our billet clutch plate kit. This kit is designed to reduce friction on the clutch operating rod, thus reducing the amount of pull it takes to retract the clutch lever:
http://www.mapcycle.com/categories/transmission-primary/pressure-plate/map2100-triumph-bsa-billet-pressure-plate-alloy-construction.htmAnswer by: rick c (Admin) on Aug 2, 2019 1:49:00 PMI have a 64/65 BSA A65C motor with a 4 spring clutch. Would I start with a friction plate inside the hub and end with a metal plate using 5 and 5 discs?Question by: john nicklin on Nov 27, 2019 6:14:00 PMBy now many of these old bikes have been modified (upgraded) to a later specifications. The later replacement parts are now less expensive and more readily available.
If your existing shock housing is original it would have a raised flange on the back by the chainwheel (stock for pre-1966 models) preventing a friction plate from touching the chainwheel, so a steel plate would have to go in first.Answer by: rick c (Admin) on Dec 2, 2019 10:40:00 AMQuestion by: john nicklin on Nov 28, 2019 12:09:00 PMI purchased a 1970 BSA that came with this clutch set. Is it supposed to have motor oil in a dry primary?Question by: Jeffery Rothenberg on Feb 6, 2018 5:17:00 PMI am not sure how you determined your BSA has our clutch in it, but this clutch set is designed to fit 1958 or later 500cc and 1963 and later 650/750cc BSA unit twins with a 3-spring this clutch.
If your clutch sits in an oil bath, then it is not a dry clutch. Dry clutches do not come into contact with oil. That is whey they are called "dry." If you happen to have an aftermarket belt drive system you may have a dry clutch. There are not many BSAs with belt drives though. If you do, then you may have a dry clutch and it is being ruined by the oil coming into contact with it. And in that case, this clutch will not work. But if you do not have an aftermarket belt drive in your BSA twin, and it is newer than 1958, then you do not have a dry clutch. And this clutch kit will work.
Answer by: rick c (Admin) on Feb 7, 2018 8:56:00 AMQuestion by: Jason Sampson on Jan 30, 2020 7:02:00 PMThis clutch kit will fit your T100.
For best performance, be sure to check the clutch basket and outer shock absorber clutch plate tang slots for notching as this will effect clutch performance. If notched, either replace with new parts or at the least, file the notches flat.Answer by: rick c (Admin) on Jan 31, 2020 12:59:00 PMUsing in a 1968 BSA A50, with a 3 spring clutch. Service manual calls for 90 weight oil. Should I use this with your clutch pack? Some recommend using ATF fluid. Is that better?Question by: Bill Wohlfarth on Apr 17, 2019 9:42:00 PMYou never want to use 90 weight oil in the gearbox. That mixture is too viscous. That is to be used only in the primary (clutch) side. You might want to re-check your manual. The manual calls for 20 weight oil in the primary, however, Type F automatic oil can safely be used and is sometimes called for if you are experiencing clutch slipping issues.Answer by: rick c (Admin) on Apr 18, 2019 9:01:00 AMMy 70 Bonneville suffers from stuck clutch plates after sitting only a few days. Difficult to free up without crunching gears. Clutch was new less than a year ago, unsure the brand. Will these plates cure the sticking? Thanks.Question by: Jim Halsey on Aug 4, 2019 7:58:00 AMIf your clutch plates are damaged or beginning to come apart, that may be part of the issue of the sticking. You will certainly want to change out your old plates. Our MAP2150 kit offers the best clutch plates available for vintage Triumph twins. This kit offers the best no drag clutch plates you can buy. If your clutch is properly adjusted with fluid levels correct, it will not drag - period.
Because you have had problems with your clutch sticking over a short period of time, it kind of makes me think someone probably put some kind of oil additive into your engine oil - something like STP or a additive designed to stop leaking seals. These additives are not designed to work on clutches, so it is possible it might make the clutch become more unusually sticky.
Keeping that in mind, I would also highly suggest you change your engine and primary oil - and clean out your oil tank and tank screen filter. On 1970 and later Triumphs, the primary and engine oils are the same. On previous years, these oils were different. While you have your primary cover off, use a non-chlorinated brake cleaner to remove all of the old oil residue from your clutch parts. Clean everything thoroughly before installing the new clutch plates.
When you replace the engine oil, I would strongly suggest you use a good MOTORCYCLE engine oil. You can buy this a any good auto parts cycle or cycle shop.
As oils evolved for automobiles, friction additives became necessary for oils used in motorcycles with "wet plate" clutches. A wet plate clutch has the plates submersed in oil. Almost all manual transmission automobiles (except some used in racing) use a diaphragm-style dry clutch. However, most modern motorcycles use wet plate clutches - including your Triumph. Those that don't (like vintage BMW, Ducati and Harley) have a dry clutch like a car and can use any automotive oil of the correct weight.
Here's the bottom line:
1. Drain the old oil in the engine, oil tank and primary
2. Clean out the old oil residue in the primary using "non-chlorinated" brake cleaner
3. Install MAP high quality clutch plates
4. Refill the oil using a good quality MOTORCYCLE engine oilAnswer by: rick c (Admin) on Aug 5, 2019 10:11:00 AM
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